mandag den 9. juli 2018

Foreword - Mid-March 2018

Copenhagen, mid-March 2018

Early retirement has a number of advantages, one of which being extra time to go travelling. Which is what I'll do the early summer of 2018, across the USA, on my 1970 MZ ES250/2. For the uninitiated, this is a 250 cc single cylinder, two stroke motorcycle, built in the former East Germany. More about that bike later.

In 1982 I went coast-to-coast on a 1950s Nimbus, a Danish, hardtail 750 cc inline four. Started out in New York City, and when three months later I reached Portland, Oregon, I was filled up with impressions, was broke and was running out of time. So after a quick ride down Highway 1 to Los Angeles, the Nimbus was put in consignment there, and I flew back home. Didn't get to see Yosemite, Death Valley, Las Vegas or Grand Canyon.

This time I'll start in L.A., see the above sights - to mention but those few - and travel in better comfort and slightly faster than first time around. Not necessarily in better style, though, as far as the motorcycle is concerned: The Nimbus is originally a 1934 design; it looks good, has eight exposed rocker arms sure to thrill audiences, and is clearly an old bike - charming, yet a bit slow and not all that comfortable.

The MZ, on the other hand, will win no beauty contests. But being decades younger and built for awful East German roads, it has soft suspension at both ends, handles well and keeps up with traffic better (see www.motorcycleclassics.com/classic-german-motorcycles/iron-pig-mz-motorcycles-zmmz11sozraw). In addition, this particular example has been modified with a later 5-speed gearbox, a Mikuni carb, modern electrics and some chassis improvements.

Being a GoldWing rider trapped in Nimbus rider's body, I like to carry a lot of stuff when on the road, so supplementing the topbox and sidebags, the MZ has a Czechoslovakian PAV 41 trailer in tow. I have no idea how it'll handle with the trailer, but cross my fingers.


The teardrop shaped PAV trailer was designed to match 1960s 
Jawa motorcycles, but still works visually ok with the more angular MZ.


The MZ has been shipped to Los Angeles, where Kaj Pedersen of 'Nimbus Club of America' keeps it until I show up in mid-April. And a back-up Nimbus has been sent to Travis Scott, up near Pike's Peak in The Rockies in Colorado. This is in case the MZ croaks somewhere along the way, so I can continue traveling on a bike I know well, without the bother of having to find another oldish bike locally. The plan is to sell both bikes when the trip ends in late June. 


Packing With A Paperweight - April 16

All tickets are bought, every single piece of luggage checked on a paperweight, and the numerous Nimbus parts - six main bearings, cylinder head, footboards, exhaust manifold etc. etc. are distributed so neither suitcase will exceed the weight limitations. All that remains is to buy 'Gammel Dansk' at the airport, for the Nimbus guys in L.A. ('Gammel Dansk' [Old Danish] is a bitter schnapps that tastes like biting an old head nurse in the arm. One has to be 5th generation North European to fully appreciate it).

CPH To NYC Flight - April 17

Tuesday, April 17




Uneventful flight, no problems getting all the Nimbus parts through customs - cheerful officer happy to see just the Nimbus Stovepipe footboards - and I'm in. Irwin, an old friend from since forever, waits with his New Beetle convertible, and we head for Manhattan. He drives like Annie Hall did in her old Beetle convertible, yet still yells at larger cars pushing their way into our lane ("He's dangerous!! I'm only pretending to be!!").

There's a Maserati parked outside my old building, same spot where I used to bumper-muscle into place my '67 Chevy Caprice beater dinosaur. They even park Harleys outside overnight. But then I already knew that the area gone upscale a bit; the Maserati wouldn't have lasted long back then.

It's been almost a decade since I was here last, but the place still feels like home.






6th Street Specials - April 18

Wednesday April 18

Another friend from the old days tells me to come over, once my foray into the Strand bookstore is over. Sean lives in The East Village with his wife Kyoko, and we go for a walk in the neighbourhood. Which of course is being gentrified too. Still there's a number of excellent murals, and the Britbike oriented motorcycle shop is still there too, looking as scruffy as ever. A couple of 1960s-70s Triumph twins with underslung TT pipes are parked outside, and inside on the upper level, more modified British twins are to be found (https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/sixth-street-specials-new-york-rock-town-cafe-nation).

The owner of the place, Scotsman Hugh Mackie, is busy working on a flattracker, and laughs when I tell of me riding the MZ across the country. Flashing a pic of my Nimbus on Fuji Speedway in Japan gets his attention, though. Nice chap, so I promise to drop by on the MZ in a couple of months.


Sean Adair posing with a Norton Commando, like the one he once rode. Of course he eventually moved on to BMW GS - three of them in fact; one got stolen, one got burned, and the last one he sold. Even if he lives in a commercial building where one can ride a large motorcycle into the elevator. 



Simple, purposeful and a bit on the rough side. 
The larger twin behind the 500 cc one has a magneto ignition.



Hugh Mackie and Fumi outside the shop (pic stolen from a story about the place).



Giger-like stair decorations. 
(Q: Giger who? A: Hans Giger, the Swiss artist behind the sets of the first Alien' movie).



This is New York advertising. Not sure if it'd work anywhere else. I just love this city....

The Bland Freedom Tower - April 19

Cold, rainy, I go to see the 'Freedom Tower' that replaced the Twin Towers at World Trade Center. I'm still sore about it, in part because it was my city they attacked, and in part because the original buildings looked great, whether seen from miles away or all the way up close. Plus my ex had her office there. Always a very late sleeper, that fateful day she was stuck on the subway and so was thankfully not in danger.


One of many new highrises, where the architects at least tried to make it look interesting. The jury is still out in regards to how well the experiment went.



Most NYC cop cars a macho looking SUVs, but this is not one of them.


While the Freedom Towers looks bland, the new shopping mall next to it is all but that.  From the outside it looks like the skeleton of a prehistoric monster, and on the inside like the cathedral of The Church of Superfaith 3000.


  

Want a cool looking custom bike, but don't want to sell non-essential parts of your body to afford it? Strip a small scooter of its bodywork, tank, saddle and silencer. Then add a Sportster style tank, a small leather seat, paint it black and you're done. The owner uses it for commuting from Queens.

Seal Beach, But No Bike - April 20 + 21

Friday, and Saturday April 20 + 21

Another uneventful flight, 5 hours from JFK to LAX, and then a foretaste of what the LA freeway system will be like. I had carefully timed it so I'd get there during rush hour, so it was a while before the SuperShuttle dropped me off at Kaj's place. Kaj Pedersen has lived in The States most of his life, and some years ago started up Nimbus Club of America. I'll hang out at his home for a week, before going riding with him and some of the other Nimbus guys.

The shipping company wrote they'd deliver the MZ some time around noon, but it's 5 pm and I see no bike. Maybe tomorrow - some Americans work Saturdays too. So instead of uncrating and reassembling the motorcycle, I sit and talk with Kaj and his wife Debbie, until the second installment  of jetlag sneaks up on me.

Saturday comes around, emails & phone calls to the shipping company lead absolutely nowhere, and I resign myself to the fact that I probably won't be riding until Monday. Plan was to meet Jesse an hour south of here in the small seaside town St. Clemente*, but when I talk of taking the train down there, he offers to drive the two hours up here from San Diego. Jesse runs the excellent car blog www.justacarguy.blogspot.com, that I have been following for years.

When people criticize his blog for one reason or another, he's pretty clear in his responses, to the point where I think Jesse could teach John Bolton a thing or two about not taking crap from anybody. Which is but one reason I like the blog. Anyway, Jesse shows up, gets all exited about the Nimbus' rocker arms - like the natives always do - and we end up talking all afternoon, which passes much too quickly. Former US Navy (submarines), former prison ward, now a photographer and of course a dedicated car nut, there's a lot of ground to cover.

* Googling 'best cafe st clemente' brought forth a list, where the first 8 choices were vegan ones. Based on the aforementioned responses Jesse dishes out, I figured he'd drink blood and eat raw meat most of the time, so vegan is out. Turns out he's a perfectly reasonable person, easily excited about things and really a car enthusiast to the fingertips (thank you, Hotwheels).


Dune buggies were invented in Southern California, so seeing them om Main Street down towards the beach was no surprise.



Jesse Bowers, hardworking creator of the very fine 'www.justacarguy.blogspot.com'.













Nice Ride, Bad Bike - April 22

Sunday, April 22

Dave Jensen, one of the Nimbus guys, shows up, and after some hours of talking and bs'ing he and Kaj go to work on a Nimbus, that the latter has been tasked to get running. It has been standing still for way too long, and it shows. It needs a new rear tyre, points, a condenser and a major cleaning and adjustment of everything, but after twenty or so primer kicks it starts. The engine sounds good, and we have yet to discover an oil leak of biblical proportions. Riding the poor thing, however, is a different matter, and I'm the sacrificial lamb here.

  
Over the last 15 years Kaj has probably worked on 30-35 Nimbuses here in the US. 

Heading for a biker bar 5 clicks down the road, I start counting all the things wrong with this bike, non-functioning rear brake being the most important one. It's probably the worst Nimbus I ever rode, even counting in my own ones. Then again, it still it beats walking or driving a car, and I'm right pleased there behind the handlebars, while preparing escape routes around cars in case they brake hard in front of me.

We stop at 'Mother's', a biker bar, third place with Harleys parked in front, along the costal road south. Newish Harleys seem to be the norm here: Most of the motorcycles I've seen so far are very large Evo dressers with thundering exhaust pipes and high handlebars, 400 kg behemoths that seem good for short trips only. Who knows....

Inside the bar every conceivable part of the roof lumber is covered in dollar bills, a departure from earlier when everything was covered in women's bras hanging from the lumber. There's also lots of grey and white hair, so the three of us don't make a dent as far as average age is concerned. Lots of flesh too, and lots of noise. After a while this noise gets replaced with a decent coverband, good enough to makes us stay for a bit, before we head back to Kaj's garage.


'Tammy Madsen Band' at Mother's, a biker bar crammed with a - let's say - rather mature audience.




Dave Jensen on his spiffy late model Nimbus.



The vanity plate close up.



Kaj grew up in Thyborøn, very close to Danish rock'n'roller Johnny Madsen, and remains friends with him. Despite nicking this sign....

Patience, Patience - April 23

Monday, April 23

Phone calls and emails reveal that the MZ might arrive today or tomorrow, and eventually, tomorrow. Kaj is on their case too, and being in the business of transport, he has a less benevolent view of their explanations for the delay. For my part I run some chores, and borrow a bicycle to ride to Long Beach, where there's a motorcycle shop. Gotta see if one can get two stroke oil over here.

Kaj had offered to lend me his Nimbus, but sightseeing is better done while pedaling. So I note all the different architectural styles, a few interesting old cars, business signs and such, while trying not to get run over by cars. This is all very exciting, so better enjoy it, because it'll be normal and boring in a few days.

Riding along the coast I also see probably thousands of private sailing boats and speed boats. It's an affluent area, with beachfront properties and nice houses, yet not so filthy rich that they also can afford much of a garden between said houses. Then across the street there may be some industrial hellscape with oil pumps and refineries, just as the occasional oil pump is seen situated smack in the middle of some suburban development.

A poorer neighborhood, predominantly black and Hispanic, appears, and eventually I reach the Triumph workshop I was aiming for. A rider shows up, the owner it turns out, tells me all bike shops are closed on Mondays. Talkative chap, gives me a rundown on the area (oil rich, lots of customs shops for cars and motorcycles) and mentions that aside from running and wrenching on the new Triumph twins, he's also a Corvair man. This gets my attention. He owns a stack of Chevy Corvairs, including some of the vans.


Porsche Speedster down the street, the real deal rather than a kit car.



Beach view, without yesterday's surfer waves. Note one of several oil rigs out at sea.



Quinessential oil pump in a residential area is a common sight.




Dave of A & E motorcycles, with his high mileage twin. The modern versions may be extremely civilized, compared to the original ones, with their balancer shafts and all, but once worked upon they will show heir fangs, he claims.

The Eagle Has Landed - April 24

I'll believe it when I see it, I think all morning, but bicycling back from Barnes & Noble, I arrive home just as a truck pulls up. So I will get it today, after all. I notice right away that the crate is bashed up, and that the metal brackets holding the motorcycle and the trailer in place are torn to pieces. The cheapo straps from T. Hansen were worth every penny, though, so damage is limited to some scrapes of paint on the trailer, and a small dent/scrape on the fuel tank. I decide not to get upset about it; a touch of paint will make it look fine again.



Top and sides of crate removed, about to mount sidebags and top box. Local mailman helps get the trailer off.

The moment of truth comes when Kaj gets home from work, and I start up the bike. A quick ride around the block reveals no surprises as far as handling is concerned, and just as well: I have 12.000 miles ahead of me. This is actually my first ride with the MZ/Pav 41 trailer combination, as all previous outings with the little one-wheeler were on the Nimbus. Kaj decides the MZ needs more pinstriping, so the fenders get the stick-on treatment, instead of the disastrous tries with paint that I did at the workshop back home.




World famous Curley's Cafe - and a large oil pump (of two) in the parking lot.


On A Wing And An Empty Stomach - April 25 (2)

Years ago I was up in a glider airplane, doing aerobatics. Great fun, but one day I'd want to do it in a motorized aircraft, and being a vintage vehicle guy, a WW2 era biplane would be ideal. Surfing on The Internets for this didn't work much, but fortunately a Nimbus friend from back home (thanks Bent) who's also flying old stuff, forwards info on one such place, that arranges flights. It not only fits my requirements perfectly, but is also close to Seal Beach, where I reside these days.

I show up at the airport in Compton before my pilot arrives, and the locals are onto the MZ right away, pointing, laughing and asking questions. Especially the little Czechoslovakian trailer seems popular.

Turns out the place has a museum too, with an emphasis on African-Americans in aviation, called 'Tomorrow's Aeronautical Museum'. I knew a bit about it beforehand, having read about the Tuskegee Airmen, the WW2 pilots who literally were fighting on two fronts: First to even be accepted as military pilots, and second to go fight the Nazis. I recall that some of the ever-dwindling group of them were present at Obama's first inauguration, and one of them chuckled; "Never thought I was going to see the day". Well, they were trailblazers, and luckily he got to see the day: If anyone ever deserved it, it would be him.


Bishop L.J. Guillory, 'Ombudsman general & Ombudsman International', no less, poses on the MZ in front of the museum's kitchen; an old converted DC-3 (or C-47). 

Pilot Mike Hanson shows up shortly after. He looks like a friendly, non-manic version of actor Gary Busey. While I'm paying the $659 for my hour of fun (thanks, Morten), Mike tells about the airport, and the volunteer program he's part of. Those of you who have seen the movie 'Straight Outta Compton' will know that the town is poor, and that the kids there really need that somebody will spend some time and effort on them. This is one of the ways of doing it, and what the money for the flight goes to.  

We then drive to the hangar where a Boeing Stearman Kaydet stand in all its glory. This one was built in 1943, was used primarily for training military pilots, and is painted in US Navy colours. Mike started flying at age 39, took over the plane when the previous owner died, but eventually the cost of using it prompted him to start flying with paying customers. Of which I'm no. 2,800. In due course ownership was transferred again to the organisation 'Tomorrow's Aeronautical Museum', that arranges various activities for Compton's needy kids. And as mentioned above, Mike is raising money by taking the likes of me aloft.

The Stearman is rolled outside, and after a quick rundown of the procedures of my flight, I get strapped into the front seat. Mike then primes the engine, turns the propeller a few times to make sure all the pistons work in their cylinders (oil can seep down in the lower ones), and fires up the large 7-cylinder radial. The plane is a 'taildragger' with a tail wheel, so Mike can't see straight ahead when taxiing, but snakes it down to the other end of the runway in order to take off against the wind. I notice lots of interesting old planes along the way, some homebuilt ones, all too many in derelict shape. It wouldn't be hard to spend a day or two here, because just like in people's garages, there are all sort of exciting things going on in the airport's many hangars. More about that in the next entry.


Up go the revs, in my earphones I hear Mike's call sign "biplane departing straight outta Compton", the plane speeds forwards, and we're airborne in no time. While we're climbing, the sprawl of Los Angeles unfolds itself beneath us. In between checking the instruments and taking in the sights, I try to imagine myself back to the time, when the plane was new and used for training pilots. The town must have looked so different back then, without the storm drains (think 'Terminator 2'), it's vast freeway system and the millions of cars.   


Mike in the rear seat, still with his hands on the controls. Later he'd hold up both his hands, indicating it was my turn to fly the old bird.




It my first video ever, so apologies for the occasional fingers in front of the lens.

Reaching the coast we turn south and fly low and close to the beach and the cliffs. I could have taken more pictures, but am too occupied with enjoying the scenery. Then Mike lowers the altitude even more, and suddenly we're but a few meters over The Pacific. Up high only the airspeed indicator needle pointing at 100 mph gives you a clue of how fast we fly, but here the speed is very real. I love it, think back on the last flight scene in '2001'. But as he said earlier; "Some priorities; maneuvers are first legal, safe, and then fun".

Eventually we climb back up for a safe altitude to do aerobatics. I hold onto the metal frame of the Stearman, Mike pulls back the stick and executes a loop. And then another. Next comes a 'hammerhead turn', where he points the nose straight up, then straight down toward the ocean, repeats it a few times, sees on my ear-to-ear grin in the rearview mirror that I'm ready for more, and does a snap-roll. Holy crap, I didn't see that one coming! Getting heavy when pulling G's in a loop was expected, while suddenly having my stomach up between my ears wasn't. At this point I know that not having breakfast this morning was one of my best decisions in a long, long time.

There's a short pause, and then he decides to show me a spin. Holy double-plus crap again! We're moving in four directions at the same time, the plane goes sideways, around, vertically down and straight again in seconds, and I'm too surprised by the sensory overload to ask him to do it some more times.

Instead at my previous request we return to ocean level, fly back up the coast for a bit, and then turn southwards again. Mike shows how the controls work and now I'm on. It seems remarkably easy. Of course a plane of this type is very forgiving, the weather conditions are perfect, and I have done my homework - reading everything I could about flying since I was 7 years old. And of course getting a feel for a plane is one thing, while flying it safely is quite another. "Flying the Stearman is a dream, but without proper training landing her can be a nighmare", Mike says. Methinks another 50 to 100 hours of flight time would undoubtedly get me there.

Over Long Beach Mike is at the control, pointing out various sights, like WW2 ships and the ocean liner Queen Mary. Once again he holds up his hands, and tells me over the intercom to just follow the river and keep us at over 1000 feet. Hmm, not so easy this time, but staggering the plane much the same way a drunk staggers down the street, like the drunk I more or less manage to stay on course. Then the airport appears to our lower left, Mike banks the plane sharply over and in no time we're on the ground again.


Women On The Salt, Jet Engine In The Car - April 25 (2)

Wednesday, April 25

In the hangar next to the Stearman, Kenny Lyons wrenches on his land speed record motorcycles. He's been at it since forever, and I see four bikes and a streamliner shell. Two of them six-cylinder GoldWings - one retired and the one with a sidecar setup still in business - and a blown 500 cc Triumph that even has done 250 cc runs with one cylinder unused. The fourth bike is a twin engined Harley shovelhead beast with water jackets on the cylinders. It looks shite and purposeful at the same time.



Setting Bonneville records is as much about going fast, as it is about finding a class with not too much competition. This may be one reason Kenny finds women riders and mounts a third wheel to his much lengthened contraption. Finding a crew of volunteers that can take a week off to go on the salt is hard work too.



The gentleman sitting on my bike in yesterday's entry set me up to meet Randy at Rock'n'roll Customs Paint, a shop doing all sorts of paint jobs on dressers, chopper and hotrods. Going through another 100+ traffic lights is none too tempting, so against my hosts' advice I enter the freeway. It works fine, though, in part because there's a lot of traffic slowing things down to a reasonable level, and in part because I can legally ride between lanes when things come to a standstill.

At R'nR the most interesting vehicle on display is a probably 10 meters long, low car, which has six wheels and a friggin' jet engine off a Russian MiG fighter aircraft. "4 seconds" says Randy, who used to drive it. Then I'm detouring my way through out to the coast, stop briefly at Mother's and ride home.





Most paint jobs at R'n'R are the usual flames, but some like a more poetic style.



Sign in parking lot outside a Home Depot store. There were more of these than there were parking spaces for the handicapped.



Andy and his 'real deal' 1970s chopper, outside Mother's, the bar we rode to a few days ago.




The Garage Company, The Petersen Museum & The Last Bookstore - April 26 (1)

Thursday, April 26

On advice from back home I visit The Garage Company in Inglewood and The Petersen Automotive Museum, the former conveniently located on the way to the latter. Cool place, The Garage Company: It has a large eclectic collection of motorcycles, and seems just a little bit messy, dirty, scruffy, about 10 % of what 'Oliehulen' ['The Oil Cave', my workshop in Copenhagen] back home looks like on a good day. Owner Yoshi is one of many Japanese motorheads who have done well over here, and I see more than a hundred bikes inside the premises; ranging from large, perfect custom bikes to small rusty bikes that for one reason or another caught the owners attention. Too many to list, so I'll just mention a wild dragster with drag bar and exhaust ports pointing skywards, that also has lights and a license plate.



The Garage Company collection included a goosenecked Honda chopper and the small US built Mustang scooter.


An elderly (as in; 'my age') guy is there to sell his Dave Mann style paintings, and later, when outside, I entertain him with details of the Danish tax system. He rolls his eyes, mutters things about 'socialism', while his buddy is all over the MZ. Upon hearing the asking price of $2,000, the buddy says he'll buy it. Great, so I already have a buyer, and one who thinks he'll ride it back from New York City. If he's serious about both things, he gets a discount...

An hour and 50+ traffic lights later I'm at the famous Petersen museum in the actual city of Los Angeles (as opposed Greater Los Angeles, which is the size of Sjælland), and make the mistake of eating in their upscale-ish cafeteria. Overpriced and undercooked spaghetti, but I make up for a bit by paying as a 'senior citizen'. Never tried that before without cheating.

Soon, at $20 extra, I find myself on a tour of the basement vault, where frustratingly no pictures can be taken. It's something about very expensive cars, and location of CCTV cameras' placement, that they don't want anybody with bad intent to know where are. 1 1/2 hours of an enthusiastic, speed-talking guide is good, so are the cars - especially those shown the last 20 minutes - and many owe their commanding prices of up to $50 million some interesting history. Steve McQueen may have been dead for 38 years now, but he's still way more cool than you or I, and is also very, very good for jacking up the price of cars and motorcycles. Like I wrote, we weren't allowed to take pics, so I've lifted these two off The Internets:


1939 Delahaye.



Huge 1925 Rolls-Royce with art deco bodywork from the 1930s. Note the round doors.
7,000 lbs. and 100 bhp, the guide said.


Despite being as jaded as I am, the above-ground three stories collection of cars and custom motorcycles still manages to impress me, There's a special Porsche exhibition, with various prototypes and a motorcycle, where for this guy the 917 racer in orange and light blue Gulf livery is the highlight, along with an early record car. The world's first hybrid car is mentioned, but not the 100-ton 'Maus' tank Ferdinand Porsche designed during WW2. Again way too many to mention, so I'll let the pictures do the talking.


Sign at the parking garage at the Petersen museum. Go figure... 




Porsche record car was built right at the time WW2 started, hence the covered headlights.



Salsbury scooter, one of the postwar era's most beautiful designs.



1948 Davis Divan, which the constructor saw as a car of the future. The buying public thought otherwise, not caring for neither the three-wheel layout, nor for the four abreast seating.









Defenders of The Cheeseburger?





Last stop is at The Last Bookstore, California's largest used book store, recommended by my host Debbie. Located in the building of a former bank, it looks wonderful and quaint, one of the reasons for this being that it still has the doors to the safety vaults. It beats The Strand in NYC hands down.



One of the bank vault doors at The Last Bookstore.

Then it's on the LA freeway system again, now in dusk and eventually darkness. This way it looks much better than in the daytime, with the sea of lights making it appear more like some enormous living organism. Which in a sense it is, and it never ceases to impress me. Half the time I'm following traffic at or below my self-imposed 50 mph max. cruise speed, and the other half of the time there's a clear road ahead of me, and a car or van or pickup or truck right on my tail. 

Final stop is at another bar with Kaj and Dave, it's parking lot filled up mostly with large Harley dressers and the accompanying noise.


Shopping carts at the local supermarket, for those too weak or too fat to walk around shopping by themselves. I briefly considered trying it.