Riding out through Navaho Nation lands (inside of which the Hopi tribe has it's territory), I see the same kind of splendid landscape I rode through yesterday. At times I yell with joy, in part because of the sight - see any tourist brochure for The Southwest - and in part because The Mother Of All Tail Winds allows me to cruise at 55-60 most of the way.
The MZ's plush suspension is nice on stretches like this one. Note immobile clouds that look like they're painted onto the sky, Magritte style.
This will go on all day, through Black Mesa and Red Mesa and into Colorado. Most of the people I see are native Indians, non-American exceptions being Chinese tourists in cars or French 50-somethings on rented Harley dressers. In Teec Nos Pos just before Four Corners I stop to chat with two other riders, who are amongst the precious few tourers not on car-size v-twins. One of them lives in Mancos 60 miles further on, and calls a BMW repair shop owner there, who might help me de-soot the MZ muffler. That's the best news I heard for days, because this going uphill in third or even second gear is getting old.
Dinosaur logo on gas station.
Blocked off entrance to whatever went seriously wrong here....
Highly motivated, I make it to Mancos record time, the BMW guy hands me the propane burner, and I heat the thing inside and out for half an hour. Then drop in some pebbles, shake it and mount the thing. Expectations set high, I take it for a spin....- and nothing has changed but perhaps the sound. Well, at least I tried, and the friendly guy charged me only $25, for the propane I used.
To start with BMW-man (sorry, I tend to forget names) fires up the serious burner, but soon only the small one is used. Flames like from a jet excame out of both end, but to o avail. The man works mainly on 'airhead' or older BMWs.
Deeply discouraged I ride on to Durango, having booked a cheap room here for tonight.
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